Tuesday, December 22, 2015

Giardino della Gherardesca

Covering 4,5 hectares, this garden is one of the largest private gardens of Florence. Being private, it is not open to the public. Actually it is part of of the Four Seasons, a five star hotel. Without telling me, Lorne wrote to the hotel explaining that we knew the garden was not open to the public but asked if they could make an exception for two Canadian tourists? Their answer was that he was right, it was not open to the  public. However, if we could set a date, they would give us a time we would be welcome.



One reason why we got in might be that at this time of the year there was not a soul in that garden. Did the fact we were Canadian helped? I doubt it, although the Four Seasons is officially a Canadian company and flies a large Canadian flag over the front door. However I read in Wikipedia that it was bought from the Canadian founder  in 2007 by Bill Gates and and Prince Al-Waleed bin Talal of Saudi Arabia. (for 3.8 billion dollars). Anyhow, it was very kind of them to let us wander for an hour where ever we wanted through the place.



When we got there, one of the three doormen in uniform said "You are Signor Charest, no? - You are expected, signori," and he had us take a seat in the foyer. It was so luxurious we hardly dare sit down (below is a room other than the foyer where we waited, but this photo from the hotel website gives an idea of the opulence of the place).




Then Giorgia, who had made the arrangements with Lorne, greeted us and took us to the garden where she said we could wander (wonder?) as much as we wanted. I asked her if we had to leave through the same door we came in (thinking she would want to know when we left). But no, we could leave through any of the open gates, "our staff has been informed you are here". I then realized that, of course, our every step must be monitored on cameras. The reason she stepped outside  with us for a minute must have been for the security personnel to identify the two guys allowed in the garden. Actually, by the service gate we left, was a building where we had a glimpse of a fellow watching the monitors.
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Lorne asked me afterwards what I thought was most impressive in that garden, and I came to the conclusion it was the maintenance. It is by far the very best maintained garden I have ever seen. All these gravel alleys are perfectly raked, lawns are magnificent and the shrubs are pruned to perfection.

This hedge actually hides the swimming pool
One particularly interesting feature of the garden is that they have copies of famous sculptures with, next to each one of them, a replica made of barbie dolls, cell phones and other discards made of plastic.





Here is a close-up.



There are some beautiful old trees, including this mature weeping beech as well as a century-old cedar of Lebanon.



Of course there were many terracotta pots, at this time of the year all filled out with cyclamens. You might wonder about my advice in a previous posts that terra cotta pots be emptied in winter to make sure they did not break? I think at the Four Seasons they don't do repair jobs as they do at the Giardino dei simplici. I would guess the Four Seasons has a pot budget bigger than that of the entire Giardino dei simplici.


There was one incongruous thing, a statue of the sacred heart under an arch but surrounded by at least 5 stark naked bronze beauties in lascivious poses.


There was also something close to a nativity scene. I suppose it is meant to be non denominational!


There was at least one temple and several fountains. A whole post could be given over to the very attractive modern sculptures in the garden and I am sparing you 50+ more pictures.


Here is something I believe you can only see in a place like Italy. These are stone steps made with recycled stones, nothing special there. What is special if that these stones must have been part of a monument as they still bear the writing that was engraved on them!


It is a strange feeling when the gates have closed behind you to find yourself back in the street again, with hundreds of honking cars, scooters and pedestrians, when just on the other side of that wall and gate, you have seen how, as Baudelaire puts it, "Là tout n'est qu'ordre et beauté, luxe, calme et volupté."






3 comments:

  1. What a cool tour! I really love the art made from found/recycled items.

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  2. Hi Alain and Lorne, Have enjoyed your blog of the trip immensely. Such interesting landscape and gardens. Merry Christmas. Bill

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